Everything There is to Know About Waxing Eyebrows

Everything There is to Know About Waxing Eyebrows

25 Sep, 20

Everything There is to Know About Waxing Eyebrows


There are a few different kinds of waxers out there who specialize in different things. On the one hand, you have many brow gurus, and on the other, you have waxers who are uncomfortable doing brows. There is a whole other sector of wax professionals who are confident with eyebrow waxing but are absolutely not good at it. In the last ten years or so, brows really started making a comeback. Thick, full brows were coveted, and they haven't gone away since. In this article, we're going to talk about earning trust from the client, how to wax eyebrows in a way that benefits your clients' face shapes, laying your eyebrow wax strips, and what to have in your eyebrow waxing kit. So whether you think you’re the best, are the best, or want to be the best at eyebrow waxing, read on to learn everything there is to know about waxing eyebrows and pick up some tips.




I could start off with all the info on how a brow helps protect from getting dirt in the eye, yadda, yadda, yadda, but I'd rather tell you that the brow's nature is to get Instagram likes and so that you can hashtag, #browsonfleek. Truthfully, they do also help to indicate whether or not you're friend or foe, or what kind of mood you're in, so, if your brows are wonky, you might have a resting-state-of-surprise-face and not even know it. Aesthetically, they frame the face. 

When you look at a frame, it's shaped and positioned to center and present a photo. If you have an overly-thick frame that completely covers the photo, or it's an odd shape that puts the photo off the left, it's not giving balance or harmony. In many cases, the frame overshadows the photo. It's the same for brows; they should be a part of the balance and harmony of the facial aesthetic, so if they're "off" the whole face is too.



  • If brows are too far apart, the face can look like it's expanding or wider than it is. 
  • If the brows are too close together, it interrupts the viewer's gaze and takes away from the humanness of the face, adds masculinity, and becomes the face's focal point. 
  • When the arch of the brow is too close toward the center of the face, it can make them look surprised or unbalanced.
  • When the fronts of brows are higher than the arches, one can look perma-worried.
  • If tails are too short, non-existent, or flared too far out, they can add unnecessary space to the face making it look wider.
  • If brows aren't parallel from the fronts to the tails, they take away from the face's balance and harmony. Like when the brow has a box shape toward the front and then rounds at the arch on the under brow, and the top part of the brow is completely flat, well, that's what I call "brow doing interpretive dance on the face."


Brows can be used to give space to a face on the smaller side, bring in a wider face, minimize the look of a larger forehead, make a jawline look less broad, and so on. The key isn't just to know how to wax eyebrows into a great shape, but to understand the why behind everything you're doing and make your client understand that too.


Remember, you're not just removing hair with brows; you can restructure a facial aesthetic, minimize the look of perceived flaws and enhance a client's best features all through a pair of good eyebrows. 



There are many types of hair removal in general but waxing, threading, and tweezing are among the mainstay. All three have their merit and shortcomings. Threading can be quick and offer low overhead for your business but more painful than waxing. Tweezing is great for ultimate control over the shape but is time-consuming and challenging to see every tiny hair. If you're a professional waxer, then stick to being the best at that and practice, practice, practice.



Waxing men comes down to preference from the client. Many men love eyebrow waxing because it opens up the eye area making them look more awake or younger. Most men would prefer their brows only to be groomed and not manicured with a precise clean line like their more feminine counterparts, although there are a lot of men in Latin and Middle Eastern cultures that prefer a squeaky clean line (then you would use similar techniques as offered below). If your client prefers a more rugged brow, men's eyebrow waxing should consist of waxing far away from the brow line, a lot of trimming and tweezing intermittent hairs on the lower arch and tail to keep the full brow vibe. But definitely wax that unibrow!




As a professional, doing brows can be a little bit trickier because if you make a mistake on a brow, you can change the very aesthetic of someone's face. The thing is, even though you may know what's up or down about brows, some clients have a certain way that they see themselves. When you change their brows, it's very easy for a client not to recognize themselves, so there are a few things you need to say and do to put them at ease and explain to them how the changes are benefiting them.


To gain trust from a new client, start by asking them questions about their brows as follows.


  • How do you usually do your brows?
  • How often would you get your brow's done? 
  • What kind of brows do you love? Or whose brows do you love?
  • Do you like to fill your brows in every day?
  • How fast do your brows grow?
  • How often do you feel you need to get your eyebrows done?
  • How much do your eyebrows grow in?


The key is to find out what their endgame is so that if they have to do some growing in, if they're brows are super-bushy, or if their brows don't have any chance of getting fuller, you can position how you're going to do their brows and which products you'll recommend to help them reach their goals.

READ: A Starpil Wax Guide to Facial Waxing



As mentioned above, clients need to know what their current brows are doing for their face shape, and that means going in and pointing out each way the brow is contributing. Before you even begin waxing, this step is critical because it's where you show your client how you're about to change their life. This may sound extra, but it's not. Many people walk around with wonky brows, or they always felt something was "off," or they knew that their brows weren't "right," but they didn't know how to fix them. You're going to show them how, and it's going to be a big deal for them.


"Do you see how this brow does X compared to the other brow? Can you see how that affects the look of the jawline? Well, if I wax the brow like this, or fill in the brow like that, it's going to give the illusion of more space, less space, a smaller forehead, make your eye color pop more, etc."


You have to show them what kinds of issues the brow is causing the face to explain how you will adjust it to receive the desired result. Then, they'll feel completely at ease to move forward—and be more likely to purchase the cosmetic solutions you recommend. And though this may seem like a long process within these paragraphs, IRL, the whole consultation should only take a few minutes.


READ: How to Motivate Your Salon Staff to Sell


If you follow anything by Anastasia Beverly Hills, you know that she has something called The Golden Ratio®. And while she didn't invent the actual golden ratio, she popularized and trademarked this simple way to measure brows. There are many ways to measure a brow, but this one is quick and extremely effective at getting brow placement right. Once you measure the brow in this way, you and the client can see how "off" a brow is. This visual tool helps to take away a lot of explaining because the client can see in a moment how their brows go over, fall short, or fall flat for their specific face shape.


Brow Start

Take a long, thin eyebrow wax stick and align it from the center of the nostril above the Cupid's bow (or the dip from the nose to the outer nostril) up to the brows. If there is no hair there, or the hair goes inward past the pencil, it's either too long or too short. The client needs to either grow in the fronts of their brow or have some hair removed. Ultimately, the brow should be hover over the tear duct slightly—mark your points with a brow pencil.


Brow Stop

From the same point at the nostril, take your eyebrow wax stick and align it underneath the eye onward toward the brow. Do the brows reach the stick, do they go past it? If tails are too long, they can "close off" an eye area and make a face appear droopy. Tails should fan out and not curve in like a hook.


Brow Arch

The corner of a picture frame is a certain distance from the center point in the same way the arch of a brow is from the iris’s center. You can take your measuring stick and use the center of the ball of the nose aligning your brush through the iris of the eye and on to where the arch of the brow should be; at the highest point. 



Brows need to match. You want your brows to be more twins than those sisters at school that no one knows are related. Using the above measuring method helps find brow placement, but it's up to you to make sure that the brows are aligned with and mirror each other. 


The start of the brows should be on the same horizontal plane. If the brow fronts were to grow onward into the face, they should be able to intersect into a perfect "X" at some point in the center of the face. 


Brows should be parallel from top to bottom, from start to tail. If the brow's body starts to get noticeably thinner before the arch, it can bring a heaviness toward the center of the face. If the brow's top line has a straight angle and the bottom line of the brow starts parallel within then dramatically swoops into some unexpected angle, the brows can look like tadpoles or commas on the face.


The tails should be flared out at the same angle. If the tails were hands on the steering wheel of a car or the face of a clock, they'd be at ten and two, not nine and three. 



One eyebrow can have three different hair growth directions. The fronts usually grow straight up, toward the arch, downward and the tails usually grow outward or downward. Some people prefer to trim after the wax; I trim before. 

A bushy brow can still have fullness and be groomed. When brow hair is too long, it can diffuse the brow shape and make the brow look three-dimensional like it's coming out at you. The hair's tips rest on the face, and as the hair continues to grow, it puffs outward like some micro-mini pompadour above the eyes. On a man, they can start to resemble chalkboard erasers.  


I do something I like to call "the sweater test." If the client were to put on a sweater, would all brow hairs dust down past the lower brow line like little spider legs? If they take a sweater off, will all the hairs spider-leg outward? Firmly brush each part of the brow in its growth direction with a spoolie, press the brush against the hair, and with small, pointed brow scissors, cut into the hairs pointing the scissors inward toward the brow. Do not cut in a straight line to avoid making a Vanilla Ice line within the brow; I cut hair by hair, for the most part, getting the longest hairs first. Do this methodically for each section of the brow.


Many people underestimate trimming, but you can really sculpt a brow with a pair of scissors, making it so that you don't have to remove as much hair with the wax to get your shape.



The brow is a block of marble, and you are Michelangelo chiseling away to reveal the work of art within. Once you've determined your brow line beforehand, placing the wax properly is essential to materializing your masterpiece. Ensure that you have the right tools in your eyebrow waxing kit for this, including small angled eyebrow wax sticks or spatulas, non-woven eyebrow wax strips cut to size (if you're using soft strip wax), and the correct wax products for the client's skin and hair type.



The challenge is to keep far enough away from the brow, yet close enough to get all of the hairs outside the lines without removing the needed brow hairs. If you have to mark the brow with a pencil, there is no shame in that game to give yourself a border. Using the smaller waxing spatula helps with this as would make sure that your wax is melted at the right consistency so that you have the most control over its spread-ability. If you have to apply and remove wax in two parts (the front of the brow and the tail, do it). When you press onto the non-woven waxing strip for soft wax, don't press too hard to avoid the wax spreading outside the lines. This concept applies to the tops of brows and the outer tail toward the temples. 


There is no shame in using a mix of waxing and tweezing, though tweezing can add time to the service, so it's up to you to determine what kind of service you want to be offering.



If you want to be a brow waxing aficionado, practice makes perfect. Grab any willing participant, advertise on social media for models, or offer the service for free to your body waxing clients if you're new to the brow game. Most importantly, start analyzing the good and the bad brows that you see. Are they symmetrical, do they enhance the face or overwhelm it, are they parallel from top to bottom, etc. In the end, it's up to your clients' needs, but if you have the skills to pay the bills, you'll be able to create the brows they’re envisioning.




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