A Starpil Wax Guide to Hair Growth

09 Sep, 20

A Starpil Wax Guide to Hair Growth


It seems like the subject of hair growth and waxing is often reduced to the phrase "about the size of a grain of rice" (or 1/4-inch long). These are great words to live by, but there is so much more to talk about concerning hair growth and waxing. In this Starpil Wax Guide to Hair Growth, we get to the root of the following questions. How fast does hair grow? How long does it take for hair to grow before it can be adequately waxed? And, how does hair grow? We also talk about how the hair growth cycle affects a smooth, even wax. We'll discuss how hair growth after waxing changes in a way that validates to your client that shaving and waxing don't mix. So, let's get to the long and short of hair growth and waxing.



In regard to rice, what kind of rice are we talking about? Basmati or a fine pilaf? How does thickness affect an optimal hair length for waxing? Thinner hair might be able to get away with waxing at slightly shorter lengths on the upper lip or sideburns, but thicker, courser hair will need to get to or above the average grain of rice to even be considered for waxing.


Finer hairs have more of a chance of being removed if shorter because their base isn’t as thick and grounded. Thicker hair has more of a substantial root, so waxing it when too short runs the risk of hair breakage, potentially leading to ingrown hairs or acne after waxing. Even if you do manage to grab some short, thick hairs from the root, that entire area will be thrown off-track causing patches of hair growing back in different hair growth cycles

Waxing hair when it’s too short will have some of the hairs growing back within a couple of days (and in an uneven, prickly wax job), and others not for a week or two. This can turn into a never-ending cycle of mixed growth patterns, ingrown hairs, and breakouts. 

When hair is at the right length, wax can spread more cleanly. When hair is too long, it can turn into a matted mess during a wax application and be considerably more painful upon removal. It also makes removal a crapshoot of hairs being ripped out in clumps instead of evenly throughout the area. This again, can put hair in an uneven growth pattern that can take months to get back on track. 

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Once you've given a successful wax, getting it back to ¼ of an inch hair growth for waxing should take a minimum of at least two weeks on finer hair areas like the face and four to six weeks on thicker hair such as the pubic area. Again, this depends on how fast and thick the hair grows and on which area of the body is being waxed. Since facial hair can grow faster and finer than other regions, an upper lip wax every other week isn't unheard of, but a Brazilian wax shouldn't be done more than every four to six weeks because the hair there might not be long enough to remove before then. 

READ: How to Do a Manzilian Wax



There are three hair growth cycles or phases known as the growth phase (anagen), the stagnation phase (catagen), and the shedding phase (telogen). Not all of the hair in a given area is in the same phase. 

For example, the first hair growth cycle, the anagen phase, is happening on 80%-90% of the body and lasts from three to five years. Hair in the anagen phase is actively growing (hair on the head can grow up to two inches in a month) and is usually OK to be waxed every four to six weeks. This phase is where keratin is building upon itself directly from the bulb and is rooted cozy and deep in the follicle. We want to get anagen hair at the root when waxing because it makes for long-lasting hair removal and finer and weaker regrowth. 

About 10%20% of hair then moves into the second hair growth phase known as the catagen phase for about ten days. This is when the hair detaches from the body's blood supply and has stopped building keratin (aka, growing), and starts the shedding process. Waxing in the catagen phase doesn't get the root but gets the loose club hairs out to welcome the telogen phase. 

The telogen phase lasts about 100 days and is when 10%-20% of body hair sheds and the growth process takes about a break before moving back into the anagen phase.

From Bloodline to Hairline

Asian bloodlines usually have round hair follicles resulting in straighter hair that grows faster and thicker than other ethnicities. These hair types can have varied hair growth cycles where hair stays in the anagen phase longer. They also might experience more growth in-between waxing. African ethnicities have flatter, more oval follicles resulting in curlier hair and slower growth but thicker, coarse hair types. European ethnic groups generally have smaller follicles, thinner hair, and slower hair growth rates.

Climate Control

This is a quick one. Hair grows faster in warmer climates than colder ones. 


Clients with hair longer than 1/2-inch long on areas like the bikini line, or underarms, are going to need trimming, but don't let them do it themselves. Depending on your comfort level, it's best that you take care of that personally. Because of the angles, they might not be able to cut their body hair evenly, may go too short, not cut enough, or not be able to gauge if the hair is at an optimal waxing length. They don't need to be embarrassed; you've seen it all and want to make sure that you are now in charge of all of their hair removal needs to get them onto the right track.

Before they leave, you can use everything you know about hair growth after waxing and hair growth cycles to determine their next appointment. Again, the following factors apply.

  • Ethnicity
  • Sex 
  • Climate
  • Waxing area(s) 

A consistent waxing schedule can get hairs on the same page and ultimately makes for smoother, longer-lasting hair removal. If clients are shaving in-between sessions, they are more prone to hair breakage, ingrown hairs, and acne after waxingand getting their growth patterns out of sync again.


New waxing clients dedicated to getting hair growth after waxing onto similar hair growth cycles need to ensure healthy hair growth for waxing while preventing ingrown hairs. We recommend using Starpil Ingrown Hair Serum while simultaneously eating a healthy diet rich in vitamin A, C, and E, B-vitamins, iron, zinc, magnesium, and proteins. It's best that they use Starpil Post-Intensive Care Lotion to keep skin balanced, nourished, and hydrated. 

After the new client's second or third session, Starpil Post-Wax Care Lotion or other hair-growth retardant products can be used.

With consistent waxing appointments and proper at-home care, clients may see hair taking longer to grow back and growing in thinner than before. This means that they can schedule their appointments later and less often. Ultimately, if they follow proper hair growth education, it can make hair removal less expensive and healthier for them.

READ: How to Motivate Your Salon Staff to Sell 

Tempting Fate

Over time, you might get a client or two that insist on emergency hair removal despite hair not quite being long enough. If you decide to take that challenge, we'd recommend going with the following: 



Learning how to read clients’ hair types and hair growth cycles help you to determine hair growth after waxing patterns and how to educate. In the end, your waxing choices will all come down to your judgment calls based on what you know. 

Feel free to share this article with your wax salon team or others you would think would get a lil sumn't sumn't from it!


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