THE WAXOPOLITAN

How to Wax Eyebrows: The Complete Guide

24 Feb, 21

woman's face showing angles for waxing eyebrows

 

There are a few different kinds of waxers out there who specialize in different things. On the one hand, you have many brow gurus, and on the other, you have waxers who are uncomfortable doing brows. Then there are those who are confident doing brows but have no idea that they might not be that good at it. That’s why this article is for everyone. If you’re the cream of the crop at brows, read on to see if there’s anything new to learn, for those needing to brush up on brows, there’s plenty to learn, and for non-pros who are still social distancing, we’ll even share some pointers on how to wax eyebrows at home. But no matter where you’re at on the latest brow trends, we’ll share how to wax and shape eyebrows in ways that bring clients back. With tips on measuring proportions and how to wax eyebrows with hard wax vs. strip, we dive deep into all-things brows. So whether you think you’re the best, are the best, or want to be the best at eyebrow waxing, read this complete guide on how to wax eyebrows.

 

THE NATURE OF THE BROW

I could start off with all the info on how a brow helps protect from getting dirt in the eye, yadda, yadda, yadda, but I'd rather tell you that the brow's nature is to get Instagram likes and so that you can hashtag, #browsonfleek. Truthfully, they do also help to indicate whether you’re a friend or foe, if you’re human, or what kind of mood you're in. So, if your brows are wonky, you might have a resting-state-of-surprise-face and not even know it. Aesthetically, they frame the face. 


When you look at a frame, it's shaped and positioned to center and present a photo. If you have an overly-thick frame that completely covers the photo, or it's an odd shape that puts the photo off the left, it's not giving balance or harmony. In many cases, the frame overshadows the photo. It's the same for brows; they should be a part of the balance and harmony of the facial aesthetic, so if they're "off" the whole face is too.

 

COMMON BROW ISSUES AND THEIR IMPACT ON THE FACE

  • If brows are too far apart, the face can look like it's expanding or wider than it is. 
  • If the brows are too close together, it interrupts the viewer's gaze and takes away from the humanness of the face, adds masculinity, and becomes the face's focal point. 
  • When the arch of the brow is too close toward the center of the face, it can make them look surprised or unbalanced.
  • When the fronts of brows are higher than the arches, one can look perma-worried.
  • If tails are too short, non-existent, or flared too far out, they can add unnecessary space to the face making it look wider.
  • If brows aren't parallel from the fronts to the tails, they take away from the face's balance and harmony. Like when the brow has a box shape toward the front and then rounds at the arch on the under brow, and the top part of the brow is completely flat, well, that's what I call "brow doing an interpretive dance on the face."

 

Brows can be used to give space to a face on the smaller side, bring in a wider face, minimize the look of a larger forehead, make a jawline look less broad, and so on. The key isn't just to know how to wax eyebrows into a great shape, but to understand the why behind everything you're doing and make your client understand that too. 

Remember, you're not just removing hair with brows; you can restructure a facial aesthetic, minimize the look of perceived flaws and enhance a client's best features all through a pair of good eyebrows.

 

THE BROW CONSULTATION

When learning how to wax eyebrows, it’s great to learn all the ways you can educate clients on their brow grooming. Touch on the following points. 

  • How to reduce redness after waxing eyebrows
  • How to prevent breakouts after waxing eyebrows
  • How to keep your eyebrows in shape after waxing

 

As a professional, doing brows can be a little bit trickier because if you make a mistake on a brow, you can change the very aesthetic of someone's face. The thing is, even though you may know what's up or down about brows, some clients have a certain way that they see themselves. When you change their brows, it's very easy for a client not to recognize themselves, so there are a few things you need to say and do to put them at ease and explain to them how the changes are benefiting them. 

To gain trust from a new client, start by asking them questions about their brows as follows. 

  • How do you usually do your brows?
  • How often would you get your brows done? 
  • What kind of brows do you love? Or whose brows do you love?
  • Do you like to fill your brows in every day?
  • How fast do your brows grow?
  • How often do you feel you need to get your eyebrows done?
  • How much do your eyebrows grow in? 

The key is to find out what their endgame is so that if they have to do some growing in, if their brows are super-bushy, or if their brows don't have any chance of getting fuller, you can position how to wax and shape brows in a tailored way and know which products you'll recommend helping them reach their goals.

 

READ: A Starpil Wax Guide to Facial Waxing

 

EXPANDING CLIENT AWARENESS

As mentioned above, clients need to know what their current brows are doing for their face shape, and that means going in and pointing out each way the brow is contributing or not. Before you even begin waxing, this step is critical because it's where you show your client how you're about to change their life. This may sound extra, but it's not. Many people walk around with mismatched brows, or they always felt something was "off," or they knew that their brows weren't "right," but they didn't know how to fix them. You're going to show them how, and it's going to be a big deal for them.

 

"Do you see how this brow does X compared to the other brow? Can you see how that affects the look of the jawline? Well, if I wax the brow like this, or fill in the brow like that, it's going to give the illusion of more space, less space, a smaller forehead, make your eye color pop more, etc."

 

You have to show them what kinds of issues the brow is causing the face to explain how you will adjust it to receive the desired result. Then, they'll feel completely at ease to move forward—and be more likely to purchase the cosmetic solutions you recommend. And though this may seem like a long process within these paragraphs, IRL, the whole consultation should only take a few minutes.

 

MEASURING THE BROW

 

If you follow anything by Anastasia Beverly Hills, you know that she has something called The Golden Ratio®. And while she didn't invent the actual golden ratio, she popularized and trademarked this simple way to measure brows. There are many ways to measure a brow, but this one is quick and extremely effective at getting brow placement right. Once you measure the brow in this way, you and the client can see how "off" a brow is. This visual tool helps to take away a lot of explaining because the client can see in a moment how their brows go over, fall short, or fall flat for their specific face shape. 

Brow Start

 Take a long, thin waxing stick and align it from the center of the nostril above the Cupid's bow (or the dip from the nose to the outer nostril) up to the brows. If there is no hair there, or the hair goes inward past the pencil, it's either too long or too short. The client needs to either grow in the fronts of their brow or have some hair removed. Ultimately, the brow should hover over the tear duct slightly—mark your points with a brow pencil. 

 

Brow Stop

From the same point at the nostril, take your eyebrow wax stick and align it underneath the eye onward toward the brow. Do the brows reach the stick, do they go past it? If tails are too long, they can "close off" an eye area and make a face appear droopy. Tails should fan out and not curve in like a hook. 

Brow Arch

The corner of a picture frame is a certain distance from the center point in the same way the arch of a brow is from the iris’s center. You can take your measuring stick and use the center of the ball of the nose aligning your brush through the iris of the eye and on to where the arch of the brow should be; at the highest point. 

 

SISTERS, NOT TWINS

Brows need to match. You want your brows to be more like twins than those sisters at school that no one knows are related. Using the above measuring method helps find brow placement, but it's up to you to make sure that the brows are aligned with and mirror each other.  

The start of the brows should be on the same horizontal plane. If the brow fronts were to grow onward into the face, they should be able to intersect into a perfect "X" at some point in the center of the face.  

Brows should be parallel from top to bottom, from start to tail. If the brow body starts to get noticeably thinner before the arch, it can bring a heaviness toward the center of the face. If the brow's top line has a straight angle and the bottom line of the brow starts parallel within then dramatically swoops into some unexpected angle, the brows can look like tadpoles or commas on the face. 

The tails should be flared out at the same angle. If the tails were hands on the steering wheel of a car or the face of a clock, they'd be at ten and two, not nine and three.

 

TRIMMING EYEBROWS

One eyebrow can have three different hair growth directions. The fronts usually grow straight up, toward the arch, downward and the tails usually grow outward or downward. Some people prefer to trim after the wax; I trim before. 

A bushy brow can still have fullness and be groomed. When brow hair is too long, it can diffuse the brow shape and make the brow look three-dimensional like it's coming out at you. The hair's tips rest on the face, and as the hair continues to grow, it puffs outward like some micro-mini pompadour above the eyes. On a man, they can start to resemble chalkboard erasers.   

I do something I like to call "the sweater test." If the client were to put on a sweater, would all brow hairs dust down past the lower brow line like little spider legs? If they take a sweater off, will all the hairs spider-leg outward? Firmly brush each part of the brow in its growth direction with a spoolie, press the brush against the hair, and with small, pointed brow scissors, cut into the hairs pointing the scissors inward toward the brow. Do not cut in a straight line to avoid making a Vanilla Ice line within the brow; I cut hair by hair, for the most part, getting the longest hairs first. Do this methodically for each section of the brow. 

Many people underestimate trimming, but you can really sculpt a brow with a pair of scissors, making it so that you don't have to remove as much hair with the wax to get your shape.

 

YOUR EYEBROW WAXING KIT

The brow is a block of marble, and you are Michelangelo chiseling away to reveal the work of art within. Once you've determined your brow line beforehand, placing the wax properly is essential to materializing your masterpiece. Ensure that you have the right tools in your eyebrow wax kit for this, including small angled eyebrow spatulas, non-woven wax strips cut to size (if you're using soft strip wax), and the correct wax products for the client's skin and hair type. 

 

HOW TO WAX EYEBROWS 

Whether you’re learning how to wax eyebrows with hard wax or soft, the challenge is to apply far enough away from the brow to avoid wax spreading on the parts of the brow you want to keep, yet close enough to get all of the hairs you do want to remove. If you have to mark the brow with a pencil, there is no shame in that game to give yourself a border. Using a smaller, angled waxing spatula helps with this. 

 

How to wax eyebrows with hard wax

Calendula Wax Collection

Start by using the best wax for the client’s skin and for facial waxing. We love Starpil Pink, Calendula, or Starsoft film hard waxes for the face because they’re all superior for sensitive skin, but get smaller, vellus hairs from the root. No matter what kind of wax you use, each has its optimal application temperature, make sure that your wax is melted at the right consistency so that you have the most control over its spread-ability. If you have to apply and remove wax in two parts (the front of the brow and the tail, do it). 

What kind of wax is used on the eyebrow?

HOW TO WAX EYEBROWS WITH WAX STRIPS

When you press onto the non-woven waxing strip for soft wax, don't press too hard to avoid the wax spreading outside the lines. This concept applies to the tops of brows and the outer tail toward the temples. 

With either hard or soft wax, there is no shame in using a mix of waxing and tweezing, though tweezing can add time to the service.

 

How can I wax my eyebrows at home?

Waxing eyebrows at home should only ever be done when you really know what you’re doing. But if you need to stay indoors, measure the brows accordingly to make sure their placement is correct. Draw in your desired brow shape and apply the wax outside that border. It’s OK to go in with a tweezer with any hair that you’ve missed with the wax. 

All of the above information for pros is the same when it comes to learning how to wax eyebrows at home.

 

Are you supposed to wax above the eyebrow?

You can wax above the eyebrow to get the best shape possible. A lot of finer hairs grow around the parameter of the brow, diffusing the shape of the brow. How you wax above eyebrows can make the difference between a perfect brow shape and a brow that looks half-done.

 

How to treat a wax burn on eyebrows

At first, a burn or skin lifting may appear as redness, but if the border of it is defined and the area looks a little wet, it may be a burn from using low-quality wax, the wax being too hot, or using the wrong wax for the skin type. As soon as you see a wax burn, cool the skin with water or a wet cold compress and leave it on the skin. Don’t try to go over it with more wax, let it heal before waxing again. 100% pure aloe vera gel, and Neosporin are great tricks to use throughout the day until the burn is gone. Avoid wearing, but do use sun protection to reduce pigmentation.

READ: SKIN LIFTING FROM WAXING: THE COMPLETE GUIDE


How to prevent breakouts after waxing eyebrows

Be sure to use the right pre and post-wax care on skin. It’s OK to continue using post-wax care even three days after waxing. Gently exfoliate the skin 24-hours after waxing and avoid going to the gym or extreme sun exposure. Keep bangs or hats off the area and if you’re acne-prone, avoid foods high in sugar or fats and keep the skin protected with moisturizers that contain antibacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredients.

 

FINAL THOUGHTS

If you want to be a brow waxing aficionado, practice makes perfect. Grab any willing participant, advertise on social media for models, or offer the service for free to your body waxing clients if you're new to the brow game. Most importantly, start analyzing the good and the bad brows that you see. Are they symmetrical, do they enhance the face or overwhelm it, are they parallel from top to bottom, etc. In the end, it's up to your clients' needs, but if you have the skills to pay the bills, you'll be able to learn how to wax eyebrows so that clients keep coming back!

How can Starpil help you give the best brows to your clients? What tips would you recommend? How do you get your best brow shape? Let us know in the comments! 

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